Like any expatriate community, Indians in Dubai are grateful they are allowed to celebrate their religious festivals, but reminiscent of the way they celebrated at home. Diwali is the most important festival for Hindus. It is a celebration of good over evil, light over dark, knowledge over ignorance. It is a celebration of Rama fighting victoriously the evil king Ravana. Traditionally, this five-day festival would be marked with parties spilling onto the streets. With entire towns and cities alight with diyas and electric lights and “crackers”. “Diwali in India is unimaginable,” said one expat from Bombay. “Diwali in Dubai is incomparable,” said another.
The Dubai Effect
The difference is the Dubai Effect. In Dubai, Diwali has become more exclusive. The parties are invitation only, the gifts that are exchanged are no longer simple hampers of dried fruits and mithais, but are mithais or even chocolates packaged in a crystal bowl. Everything is more elaborate, more glamorous. Some expats believe it is the cultural element that is missing.
One gentleman who left India for the UAE nearly thirty-five years ago described this cultural divergence. “Dubai is of course a different culture than India, so the celebration is bound to be weaker. In India everyone is like me, Indian Hindu. So everyone is celebrating.”
In India, particularly Mumbai every house and public building, every street, indeed the entire city is decorated with rangoli and diyas, and the sky filled with crackers throughout the five nights and into the morning. People will call unannounced at their friends’ and family’s homes, and in turn receive guests unannounced. “It is a more open culture, a more welcoming culture. Dubai is more formal. You cannot show up unannounced to even a friend’s home; it is not proper, not part of the culture.”
Generation to Generation
Missing too is the familial connection. For the most part, expats living in Dubai are not surrounded by their large extended families the way they would be in India. This can effect not only the manner in which Diwali is celebrated but also the reason behind it.
Like any religious holiday the manner in which one celebrates Diwali can vary due to family, community or regional customs. Some Pujas are more extensive than others. Some people make rangoli others do not. Some people draw the footprints of Laxmi on their doorstep to show her the way, others do not. These differences have more to do with the size and diversity of India itself, rather than the effect of living in Dubai. Yet, these differences become more stark when one is living outside of their native community; pressed against the traditions of others.
The reaction to this by some is to cling more closely to the reasons and practices they inherited from their parents and grandparents. In this way ensuring their heritage is passed on to their children. Children who, in large part, are bred and possibly born outside of India. And who, due to cost, might not travel to India for quite some time.
Still others respond in the opposite manner. Mixing elements of their past with elements of their present. For them Diwali certainly still holds its importance, but the manner in which it is celebrated has become more cosmopolitan.
Secularization of Diwali
To some expats this dilutes the meaning of Diwali. They fear the festival is becoming secularized. The less conservative parties with alcohol and gambling, and the exchanging of business cards all signs that Diwali is less about the ancient legends and more about networking. Still others see no real difference. They may not be allowed to celebrate with crackers but they are still able to perform Laxmi Puja, purchase the traditional piece of gold or silver jewelry on “Dhanteras” and still able to invite guests into their homes.
One woman welcomed each of her guests with blessings of powdered saffron and sandalwood, rice and jasmine. Gifts of “dried fruits” or nuts along with “mithais” or sweets are still given. Traditional mithais such as: laddoos, jalebis, halwa, kaju katli and barfis are available from shops in Bur Dubai. The majority of Dubai’s Indian population lives in Bur Dubai and it is home to Mina Bazaar, where Sherwanis, Churidaar Kurtas, Salwar Kameez, Sarees and the like are also available. Although in Dubai, few Indian women wear the saree.
Indian Community in Dubai
Bur Dubai and Mina Bazaar are testaments to the size and history of the Indian community in Dubai. Indians make up 30% of Dubai’s population and 50% of its workforce. With such a thriving community, it is no wonder that foods, clothing, jewelry and other elements of the Indian culture have made their way to Dubai and taken root.
Leading up to and throughout the five days of Diwali, these shops are crammed with customers; taking orders in person and over the phone. Gold prices soar, mithais run low, and seamstresses finish off newly made clothing. The streets are bustling, the shops have floral garlands hung from their awnings, electric lights adorning their windows and doors, with “Happy Diwali” signs hung or painted underneath.
For many expats living in Dubai, these signs of Diwali are enough to connect them to their roots. “Dubai is good,” one gentleman said. “The government allows us to celebrate.” For one woman, Diwali in Dubai is not the same, but it is better than nothing.
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